37

Deschutes River Crossing

BEAVER BOARD INFORMATION

The Oregon Trail crossed the hazardous Deschutes River at this point by floating the prairie schooners and swimming the livestock. An island at the river mouth was often utilized when the water was high and the ford dangerous. Pioneer women and children were frequently ferried across the stream by Native canoe men who made the passage in exchange for bright colored shirts and other trade goods.

FACT BLOCK

LOCATION:
Biggs Junction
Sherman COUNTY

GPS COORDINATES:
45.634116,-120.91186

OTIC topic:
Historic Routes
(part of oregon trail)

beaver board text CODED AS:
NO WHITE SUPREMACY ACKNOWLEDGMENT
-
MULTICULTURAl

date published online:
september 23, 2011
37B

Deschutes River
State Recreation Area

BEAVER BOARD INFORMATION

TRULY HEART-BREAKING! 
Oregon Trail emigrants reached the Columbia River after an arduous trek across the dry and dusty Columbia Plateau, where Harriet A. Loughary, emigrant of 1864, noted "nothing indicates life except an occasional  Juniper tree." Weary emigrants found little comfort on the plateau: water, firewood, and browse for livestock was scarce. Honore-Timothee Lempfrit, emigrant of 1848, descended the bluffs to the Columbia River and exclaimed, "Our poor animals were exhausted by fatigue and were at the point of collapse from inanition." Some emigrants reached this site and were forced to lighten their loads before crossing the river.
 
When we finally reached the Des Chutes region we were obliged to do exactly what those before us had done, doubtless with no lighter hearts than ours. We cast aside every article that we could possibly spare. One wagon was shaved and whittled down as much as was consistent with strength and safety. All of our belongings were then put into this one, and the other perfectly good wagon left standing disconsolately beside the road. Oh, it was truly heart-breaking! But it had to be done. There was no use repining. Here, too, we parted with our cheery little sheet-iron cook stove, which had been a real joy and comfort to us all the way across the plains. Words cannot tell how I felt about leaving all these good things of ours, especially the stove, after we had carried them so far."
--Esther M. Lockhart
emigrant of 1851 (Recollection) 

THE LONGED FOR COLUMBIA
Early Oregon Trail emigrants floated down the Columbia River or followed its south bank from Fort Walla Walla. In the 1840s travelers established an alternate route from the Umatilla River to The Dalles across the Columbia Plateau. The new route, 4 to 12 miles south of the river, shortened the journey to the Willamette Valley, but as William J. Watson noted in '49, emigrants found the road "very dusty" and traveled long distances "without water or wood," Emigrants reached the Columbia River a few miles to the east near Biggs, and some were disappointed by what they found. 
About midnight we reached the longed for Columbia River, but alas! what a disappointment. We had thought that we would find the Promised Land, we had set our hopes on a new Eden! Not so! We found a dry and arid land where there was not a piece of wood, not even a stick, and where a violent wind carried clouds of dust with it. That was it, that was all we found there. We had to take shelter behind our waggons to avoid being buried in the sand that the wind hurled at us with unbelievable violence. We ate a few biscuits and slept as best we could.Honore-Timothee Lempfrit,September 21,1848 

FRIENDSHIPS NOT EASILY SEVERED
Oregon Trail emigrants traveling across the Columbia Plateau caught their first view of what William J. Watson, emigrant of 1849, called the "long - looked for Columbia" from the crest of a hill near Biggs. With Mt. Hood towering majestically to the southwest and the Columbia River below, the day was fast approaching when emigrants would part company to become settlers. Relief near journey's end was surely offset by melancholy.
 
This morning our party is separated after months of toil and hardships, dangers and difficulties freely helping to bear each others burden, begets a friendship not easily severed. All of the wagons go over the mountains except our own. We start alone toward The Dalles...
--Harriet A. Loughary
August 24, 1864
 
INDIANS OF DESCHUTES
After crossing the Deschutes most Oregon Trail emigrants traveled south of the Columbia and did not see the large Indian villages at nearby Celilo Falls. Indians were not scarce at this river crossing, however, Elizabeth Dixon Smith, emigrant of 1847 exclaimed "the Indians are as thick as hops here." Although emigrants often found native people helpful, if not essential to survival, cultural differences were vast and ignorance rarely overcome. 

"That Indian, whose untutored mind Sees God in the clouds, or hears him in the wind-- Whose soul, proud science never taught to stray"Far as the glittering sun, or other orbs of day, Lives far retird -- a kanion deep, a solitary dell, A gloomy shade -- 'tis there he deigns to dwell. What is his food, when naught but rocks around Are seen? No fields of plenty there to clothe the ground. His Raiment, also scant, to shield his naked form, No robes of beasts, nor pelts, nor furs, to guard from the storm. And when with food he chance to break his fast, He finds no wood to cook his limited repast. Alas, what then? The salmon and the salmon trout, In that mad stream are seen to gambol about. By him prepared upon the rocks, or hung on slender poles, Not far above, on steep decline, where furious water rolls, He dries his food, and thus 'tis savd from future harm... 
-- Riley Root
September 2, 1848

DESCHUTES RIVER CROSSING
River crossings were difficult for Oregon Trail emigrant and the Deschutes River was no exception. John McAllister, emigrant of 1852, warned "danger attends the crossage here ... many large rocks and at the same time a very rapid current." Emigrants, wagons, and livestock all had to cross the river and casualties were common. Amelia Hadley, emigrant of 1851, noted a canoe "bottom side up, with a pair of boots tied in the captern." Early emigrants often hired local Indians to assist at this river crossing. During the 1850s pioneer entrepreneurs seized control of the ford and offered expensive ferry service. A toll bridge was established by 1864. 
...we drove four miles to Des Chutes River, a rapid stream heading in the mountain and one hundred fifty yards wide. The wind being high we could not ferry. We then concluded to ford it. The ferryman declared all would be lost, telling enormous lies to alarm us, but we employed an Indian guide who rode before each wagon, giving us the course to the island, the ford being very crooked; he then rode in front of one team, the rest following in a string, the course being nearly straight across the second channel. We paid him $2 for his services, all being across safe and dry. Our ferriage would have been $15; thus we saved $13 by fording.
-- Basil Longworth
September 17-18, 1853

ALMOST INSURMOUNTABLE
The Deschutes River drains the eastern slopes of the Cascade Range and flows from Central Oregon to the Columbia River. Here, near its confluence with the Columbia, the Deschutes flows through a chasm that Riley Root, emigrant of 1848, compared to "the valley of Sinbad the sailor." Oregon Trail emigrants usually arrived at this site in the late afternoon, and after a perilous river crossing they ascended the hill immediately to the west, camping at the summit. Amelia Hadley described this ascent in 1851 as "almost insurmountable." The emigrant's route is still visible across the river, particularly in early morning or late evening light. 
After we had got across the river we stopped for a few moments to debate whether we should push on further ahead. We were faced with a very steep hill to climb ... the Captain was the first to get up the hill and to do so he had to use our four pairs of oxen as well as his own. Thus he had eight pairs and despite this long string of oxen he had the utmost difficulty in reaching the top of the hill. After this he came down for us and we managed to get up the hill quite well. When we arrived at the summit we found a nice little spot to set up our camp."Honore-Timothee Lempfrit,September 22, 1848

PATHWAY TO THE "GARDEN OF THE WORLD"
Excitement filled the air May 22, 1843 as nearly one thousand Americans left Missouri toward new lives in the Oregon Country. During the next two decades, more than 50,000 people emigrated to a land of abundance. a land that Abigail Scott, emigrant of 1852, called the "Garden of the World." The Oregon Trail was more than two thousand miles through what Riley Root, emigrant of 1848, called "Landscape without soil! River bottoms with scarcely enough grass to support emigrant teams." The fragile landscape's ability to sustain life eroded as numbers of emigrants increased and privation, illness and death became constant companions. Emigrants endured an extremely wearisome road, and by the time they reached this portion of the trail, with the journey's end in sight, many would soon switch their teams from the wagon to the plow. 
We lay last night about 3 miles above the mouth of Big Sandy Creek on the opposite of the river, which was out (sic) stopping place. We landed this morning at our destine place and to our great joy found the rest of our company with the mules all safely over the Cascade Mountains. We remained here several days to rest and dry out and counsel where to lay our claims and after retuning our acknowledgements to the Beneficent Being who alone can preserve through the many dangers and difficulties through which we have passed, and having all got through this terrible wilderness alive. I bring my journal to a close in the Valley of Willamette.
--Henry Allyn
September 6, 1853

FACT BLOCK

LOCATION:
Biggs Junction
Sherman COUNTY

GPS COORDINATES:
45.632849,-120.908886

OTIC TOPIC:
Oregon Trail 
(PART OF THE OREGON TRAIL)

SPONSORED BY:
Oregon State Parks

beaver board texT CODED AS:
NO WHITE SUPREMACY ACKNOWLEDGMENT
-
MULTICULTURAL

PUBLISHED ONLINE:
OCTOBER 11, 2012
38

DUFUR

BEAVER BOARD INFORMATION

[[File:Great Southern depot and train at Dufur, Oregon (3227004660).jpg|Great_Southern_depot_and_train_at_Dufur,_Oregon_(3227004660)]].OSU Special Collections & Archives : Commons
OTIC Summary:
Emigrants choosing the Barlow Road route traveled south from The Dalles toward Dufur, where the water and camping were both good. Look for the Oregon Trailmarker on Fifteenmile Creek and visit the Dufur Historical Museum. 

ACTUAL MARKER TEXT:
You are standing very close to where the wagons and travelers crossed 15 Mile Creek. The adjacent field was used as a campsite and lush pasture for livestock. Return if you will, back down the Oregon Trail leading to the John Day River and consider this: DECISION TIME. Much discussion has been going on throughout the wagon trail during the past weeks regarding which route we should follow once the John Day River has been crossed?

TIME: What if we take the South Fork? It could possibly save as much as a week of travel but the route is very difficult. We could go on to Fort Dalles (Wascopam) before we decide. The trail is fairly good except for the crossing at the mouth of the Deschutes.

COST: Whatever route we take will cost us - $5 per wagon and 1- cents for each animal if we take the Barlow Road route and even more if we go down the Columbia River.

DIFFICULTY: We are told that a less difficult route over an old Indian trail will take us south from Fort Dalles, through Fifteen Mile Valley (Later Dufur). Tysch Prairie (later Tygh Valley) up the hill to what would later be Prattville, then Wamic, where we will connect with the Barlow Road.What decision would you have made if you had been one of these brave emigrant travelers?

The following are actual accounts from travelers who did take these various routes choses to complete the long journey they believed would provide new beginnings and a better life:

Americus Savage’s journal 1851, “The companies soon divided, some going to the barlow route across the mountains while others went down the columbia river. I took the latter course on account of the situation of my family. (Wife mary gave birth to a son oct 6th). One of my Oxen was very poor and lame, the other poor and weak. I had no time to lose. We that came by water landed at the dalles that 22 day of september. I paid $30 from the dalles to cascade falls in a yawl boat and pulled the oars all the way, blistered my hands terribly.

I paid $6 for portage of my freight across and $35 dollars from there in an open boat to where we landed at the mouth of the big sandy on september 29th. I had sent my cattle down the trail which was represented by those who drove them as being a rough and dangerous trail. They were from the 29th of september to the 6th of october making this trip”.

On August 30, 1848 Riley Root wrote, “Traveled about 5 miles east to the crossing of the Deschutes of Fall river. Here, we breakfasted in a deep chasm, almost as difficult of descent and ascent, as the valley of Sinbad the sailor, with nearly precipitous rocks, from 1000 to 1500 feet high, on every side. Afternoons employed in a caulking wagonboxes, to ferry our goods across the river”. Even with help from local indians, it took Root and his party three days to ferry their goods across the Deschutes. In the years that followed, a series of ferries and bridges were built and washed out, but the road remained.

More history available in the Dufur Living History Museum, P.O. Box 462, Dufur OR. 97021, 541-467-2480, dufurhistorical@gorge.net, www.dufurthreshingbee.com

FACT BLOCK

LOCATION:
Dufur
Wasco COUNTY

GPS COORDINATES:
45.453531,-121.130834

OTIC TOPIC:
Oregon Trail
(PART OF OREGON TRAIL)

beaver board texT CODED AS:
NO WHITE SUPREMACY ACKNOWLEDGMENT
-
FALSE MULTICULTURAL INFORMATION

PUBLISHED ONLINE:
OCTOBER 11, 2012
39

Durkee

BEAVER BOARD INFORMATION

Gary Halvorson, Oregon State Archives
[[File:Durkee Area View (Baker County, Oregon scenic images) (bakDA0027a).jpg|Durkee_Area_View_(Baker_County,_Oregon_scenic_images)_(bakDA0027a)]]
This spot was famous in early days as Express Ranch an important relay station on the Umatilla-Boise Basin Stage and Freight Route. It was also a favorite camping place for emigrants and teamsters

FACT BLOCK

LOCATION:
Durkee
Baker COUNTY

GPS COORDINATES:
44.581585,-117.464487

OTIC TOPIC:
Historic Routes, Historic Towns

PART OF THE OREGON TRAIL

beaver board texT CODED AS::
NO WHITE SUPREMACY ACKNOWLEDGMENT
-
NO MULTICULTURAL INFORMATION